THE DIALOGUE 0006

James Oliver

Founder / Editor in Chief of THE NEW ORDER Magazine

Editor-in-Chief of THE NEW ORDER Magazine

James Oliver

Founder and editor-in-chief of "THE NEW ORDER", a magazine with a strong fan base around the world that continues to capture and disseminate high-quality information from the world's fashion, design, art, culture, and other scenes. The magazine was launched in 2009 and is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year. A former professional football player from New Zealand.

THE NEW ORDER Magazine

@JAMESOLIVER_TNO

James Oliver, who has a dedicated global fanbase, initially made his mark as a co-founder of of the online media "SLAMXHYPE." In 2009, he launched the new fashion and culture magazine "THE NEW ORDER Magazine." Handling everything from writing to photography himself, he has consistently shared diverse creative content with the world.

In an industry where just maintaining continuity is a challenge, he now reflects on the current state of global and Japanese culture, his unique approach to journalism, and his vision for the future of THE NEW ORDER as it celebrates its 15th anniversary this year.

SLAMXHYPE and THE NEW ORDER

"I left school to become a football player in Australia, but after many injury problems I was forced to quit, from then I coached football. I was into sub-cultures growing up, skateboarding and music in particular while I always had an affection for magazines. I mainly collected football and fashion magazines since I was young, when it came to fashion magazines I was heavily influenced by magazines like *The Face*, *i-D* and *Arena Homme Plus*. While I was coaching football I really wanted to start a print magazine but there were many adversaries, mainly money so with my brother we decided to start SLAMXHYPE, an online magazine. This was in 2003.

SLAMXHYPE became a media outlet focused on street culture, garnering a dedicated fanbase from around the world, particularly in North America and Europe. As James continued to run the online platform, he became deeply immersed in the process of creating media. Gradually, his curiosity shifted towards producing a print magazine.

SLAMXHYPE created some kind of movement, a noise online that hadn’t really been witnessed before. From there, I began to seriously consider publishing a print magazine. I’ve always had a deep interest in fashion, especially labels and brands that had a genuine story or unique product. Street brands like SUPREME, BAPE®︎ and FUCT stood out while high end labels like Maison Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, Comme des Garcons and later on Raf Simons captured my attention. Besides fashion, music and skateboarding were passions of mine from a young age, and they’ve had a strong influence on my personal style. And, of course, sports, particularly football, have always been an important part of my cultural identity. With that in mind, I decided to move to Japan, a place rich with unique history and diverse cultures, after not too long I started THE NEW ORDER. I didn’t speak Japanese initially, and I didn’t have many connections here at first, but my desire to create a magazine was overwhelming."

And so, James relocated to Japan and launched THE NEW ORDER in 2009.

Connecting communities and creating culture.

“Yes, I named the magazine’s name the magazine after the band NEW ORDER. But it was more about what the words mean to me and how they could be portrayed in the magazine, everything that goes in the magazine has to be relevant to now and looking ahead. The first albums I ever bought, when I was eight, were *Guns N' Roses* and *New Order*. The purpose of *THE NEW ORDER* is to create a new vision through the magazine. It’s not just about one culture or one part of the world; it’s about connecting local communities with a certain vision that is unique to THE NEW ORDER and putting this out to the world working with thug best photographers, stylists and writers.I focus on delivering important aspects of the world that people might not usually see, while preserving their integrity. This can’t be done without the amazing contributions from the people around THE NEW ORDER. It doesn’t matter if they are really famous or not, its about genuinely and originality. Music and fashion are essential elements of the magazine, but I also always keep an eye various creative worlds, art, tattoo culture, sports, food, outdoors, gardening, anything that interested me.

THE NEW ORDER continues to captivate readers by capturing the forefront of fast-moving scenes like fashion and music, along with unique features, and beautifully high-quality visuals and editing. We asked James, who consistently produces outstanding creative work, about some of the most memorable projects he's worked on.

"In 2019, I had the opportunity to interview Liam Gallagher from OASIS for the cover of *ISSUE #22*. We did the photoshoot and interview in LA, while he was on tour in the States. Having been a huge fan of OASIS since I was young, I never imagined I would get this opportunity. I thought it could never get bigger or better than this so at the time so a part of me thought what was the point in continuing the magazine. Then again, what else would I do.

Unique and unparalleled journalism.

While discussing the process of creating a magazine, he began to speak about the originality of THE NEW ORDER.

"People often show interest in how I've learned about so many different cultures and how I develop ideas for the magazine. I think people are intrigued by my approach to making a magazine because it’s not made in a conventional way because I didn’t attend a fashion or journalist school; I learnt everything as I went on. Whether it’s conducting interviews, taking photos, or creating a campaign for someone, I don’t follow a formal method. I shape each image based on my memories and experiences. Since my approach doesn’t adhere to conventional theories, it might be why those I work with find it interesting." My method is a way that comes naturally to me, basically I produce the magazine the same way I would manage a football team. Each issue is a season, each editorial is a game, to win the league you have to win every game. To create the best possible product I have to dedicate myself to each and every single editorial. I have to be the best at everything I do because I have to win the league every season.

When you open the pages of THE NEW ORDER, you'll find features with perspectives rarely seen in conventional magazines, along with photos full of humour. He continues to explain his unique philosophy of journalism, including how he selects interview subjects and his attention to detail.

“It starts with the desire to actually work with people I've always respected or to find people who are truly pure and sincere, with compelling stories behind the culture that catches my interest. Talking to a musician, for instance, and understanding why they make music and or their creative process, serves as a huge motivation for me. At the same time, I believe it makes for a very engaging topic for content. One of the reasons so many people around the world read THE NEW ORDER is because they want to know the stories and reasons behind certain creators or art forms. By learning about creators—whether they are designers, musicians, chefs, or artists—whoever they are, why they make what they do, and how they do it, the work itself gains much more depth and people develop a stronger attachment to it."

The contours of culture.

Having closely observed various cultures, James points out the evolving relationship between media and culture over time.

"Sometimes, things that lack substance become incredibly popular and spread excessively. On the other hand, some artists create truly great work but go unrecognised because they don't seek the spotlight. What’s truly valuable doesn’t always gain attention, while only the flashy things do. That’s what’s happening in today’s society. Social media is just as important a medium as magazines, but when something becomes overly famous or when the media excessively praises certain brands or creators, it stops being cool. I don’t think that’s necessarily a bad thing, but some of the culture’s meaning indeed gets lost in the process. It’s a bit unfortunate, but that’s the way the world is now, and that’s how society is changing. Whether you’re in Japan, New Zealand, America, or anywhere in Europe, it feels the same. We’re living in an era where everyone is doing the same things, trying to follow the same trends. Individuality is getting lost.

Having lived in Japan and continued his interviews since launching the magazine, how does Mr. James perceive Japanese culture?

"One of the unique aspects of Japan, I think, is the remarkable attention to details, sense and keen eye that Japanese people have when recognising things that already exist. The Japanese are very skilled at arranging and refining existing things. It’s not necessarily about creating something entirely new but rather about making subtle improvements to what’s already there, and suddenly you’re left thinking, ‘Wow, this is amazing.’ This ability, sometimes akin to sampling, is one of the appealing qualities of the Japanese."

Tangible experiences shape our lives.

Throughout the two-hour interview, it was striking how often he emphasised the importance of physical experiences. As someone who continues to work in print media, Mr. James expressed the significance of these experiences in this way.

"Going to a store, attending a live concert, watching a football match—those experiences are important. Meeting people and observing others—I believe these are crucial moments that can change you. The same applies to magazines. When you physically go to a bookstore, choose something you like from among many books, and read every page carefully, that magazine becomes unforgettable, something you can't throw away. Experiences that engage all your senses have a powerful impact on you, and I believe such experiences are essential in shaping one’s values. This is the unique potential of physical expression and the distinct value of print magazines. I hope that the movement of THE NEW ORDER encourages people to take such actions, inspiring them to experience things firsthand rather than just looking at photos or videos on their smartphones."

The New Order.

As THE NEW ORDER celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, what are Mr. James's thoughts on the project? He concluded the interview with these final words.

"As I mentioned earlier, I strongly feel that the landscape surrounding culture and media, including the financial aspects, is rapidly changing. There are many things to consider, but in the end, as long as the magazine turns out well, nothing else really matters. Being passionate about something—just like everyone at OAO is with their pursuit of creating shoes—ultimately means that the final output, the result, is what matters most. There are many relationships, communications, and various troubles behind the scenes, but at the end of the day, you’re making shoes, and I’m making a magazine. No matter what happens, the only thing that matters is creating something good. It's really simple. So, as long as the outcome is great, nothing else is important. That might be the conclusion.

I want THE NEW ORDER to be known worldwide. Moving forward, I’m planning to not only continue making the magazine but also to actively engage in projects like collaborations and events, I would rally like to organise a music festival one day. These projects are incredibly exciting for me right now, and I'm always on the lookout for something new. Connecting with various people and cultures, while also encountering new people and things—there’s nothing more enjoyable than that."

"The important thing is to work with passion and have a good time. It is just that simple."